At the 50 km long coast of the Axarquia, the water has a balancing effect, the temperature moderates in both summer and winter. At this Sonnenplatz thrive Muscatel, early fruit and beautiful flowers. From the beach here we see the wild peaks that form the border with the province of Granada, where we can get over the mountain pass of Zafarraya in 920m height. La Maroma is in the Sierra Tejeda with 2.065m the highest mountain in the region; the peak is sometimes snowy. The foothills push their offshoots in places down to the sea front, forming steep cliffs and coves. After rainfall bring the rivers and gorges abundant rain water down, sometimes melt water. Names like Rio Seco indicate that these rivers are the majority of the year dry. The Rio Velez is the most important waterway with a huge catchment area. Countless streams from the high bare mountains unite to rivers that flow into the Rio Velez. Sometimes he could not believe the water masses; He stepped out of his broad pelvis and tore everything with what hindered his way. The reservoir of La Vinuela to the rescue; the currents are collected and used for better water supply of lower Axarquia. The dam forms approximately the geographical center of the Mark. The rainfall in the 31 municipalities of the "Comarca" are very different: from 433 liters in Torre del Mar to 1,045 liters in 925m altitude in Alfarnate. From the plateau of Zafarraya forth flow from north to south underground streams which have variously caused landslides. At times, the lack of rainfall prepares worried, and the wind dries the country. The "Levante", the east wind is most pleasant. The "Poniente" should bring rain from the Atlantic Ocean, but mostly it just clouds. The "crazy Terral" hot dry land wind dries out the earth and makes our skin tingle.
Before the Axarquia be opened up to tourism, she lived exclusively from agriculture. Even today, the agriculture in the first place of the income scale. Actually she lives 5420 small tourism partly by DSC. The varied cuisine utilizes the rich supply of agriculture and fishing. The cuisine of the Axarquia is based on olive oil, fish and box products. The agricultural cultivation has undergone a big change. Sugarcane became less profitable, the sugar mills are in ruins in the countryside; the "Azucarera" in Torre del Mar was decommissioned. What is still harvested in the area, go by truck to Motril in the rum factory.
In the annex, there are strong contrasts: In the fertile lowlands mainly grow potatoes and vegetables; on irrigated fields mean thrive tropical fruits and in the mountainous areas like from ancient olives, almonds and grapes; the fig trees have become rare.
The country work under the scorching sun requires great effort. While the sea breeze eases somewhat the load end, wearying heat of summer, but the Campesinos do well to work before sunrise to retire during the greatest heat for siesta. At harvest, all family members help with, to have on Sunday most of the time. The farmers offer an ever wider range of vegetables from the greenhouses that bring several harvests a year. Unfortunately spoil this "Invernaderos" increasingly the landscape, is where reputed to that they affect the climate adversely.
In every season we can buy vegetables that we do not see in the northern latitudes in field and garden. Eggplant, celery, broccoli, fennel, garlic, beets, peppers, hot peppers, sweet potatoes, beefsteak tomatoes and various types of lettuce. Olives are harvested mostly by November to February from November to January oranges, lemons and avocados, in April loquats and strawberries in May apricot, June plums, cherries, ripe figs, in July pears, melons, in August peaches, figs, pears , grapes, MandeIn, prickly pears, grapes in September, in October nuts, mango, in November pomegranates, papayas, custard apples, chestnuts, edible acorns, in December passion fruit.
Large areas in the mountains have only sheep and goats food. There used to the mountain villages rich forests. They provided wood for shipbuilding, Firewood for sugar cane processing factories, bakeries and brick factories, and charcoal for domestic heating in cities.
"Los Carboneros" is in a surviving name for zones, where once smoked the pile of Köhler. Muleteers brought the coal to Malaga. The rest of the wood verfeuerte later industry. The karst is the work of human hands. It has been irresponsibly neglected putting new trees. In recent years, efforts have amazing determine Mountain reforest, even at high altitude and steep slopes. In the mountains you will find a rich flora and fauna. Many animal species are threatened by the widespread hunting and Fallenstellereiund had to be protected. Among the many wild plants as spices are to be used; we can gather rosemary, thyme and capers themselves here.
As hard as the Axarquinos understood to work as hard to understand, to celebrate. At the festivals many traditional activities are maintained, such as the Verdiales and fandangos, old songs and dances from the mountains of Malaga. The original background music is performed on violins with two steel strings, guitars and tambourines. In the absence of instruments, mortars and other kitchen utensils were used.
Who likes to go shopping time, can choose fresh fruits and vegetables in the well-stocked market halls and admire the strangest sea creatures. The overflowing fruit and vegetable stalls at the market are a delight. The cheerful bustle of street markets must not be missed. You will find Monday in Torrox-Costa, Tuesdays in Nerja, Wednesdays in Algarrobo-Costa and Rincon de la Victoria, Thursdays in Velez-Malaga, Torre del Mar and Frigiliana, Saturdays in Competa and La Caleta de Velez instead. On Fridays we can visit the markets of Almunecar and La Herradura.
In the colorful Bude series clothing, linen and leather goods, household items, antiques, toys, fashion jewelry and all sorts of bells and whistles offered; often by gypsies who have no fixed prices, as well as the carpet traders from Africa. The "Gitanos" have sometimes spread just a bundle on the floor and disappear when police appears. Others have permanent stalls and clientele, even among Germans. They are from the market not indispensable. Den flamenco which arose before their time, they have brought to perfection, and the frilly dress, which plays a role at the festivals, comes from them.
Long ago they immigrated to Spain. Their tribes from western India crossed the Balkan and scattered all over Europe. Always driven out, they led an unsettled life, were persecuted and declared "outlaws". Spain was their "promised land", when King Carlos III. them 1783 full citizenship
granted. Many have already integrated with other separate and preserve their customs. For many foreigners, the guitar and the flamenco romantic epitome of Spain.
But Spain lives in the twentieth century. Where previously mules and donkeys carried the loads, today provides an entire fleet of motor vehicles for the transport of persons and goods. When Ibn Battuta, egyptian, 1465 traveled Abd-al-Basit, the famous world traveler of the 15th century, who also described places like Aden, Timbuktu and Beijing in the smallest detail by the Axarquia, traveling was still arduous. He had gone in Malaga ashore to go to Granada and has described in his travel diary ,, O Riblah "its way along the coast, about Velez to Venta of Zafarraya. What the traveler most impressed, the colors above were horizon, which delight us today.
Only at the beginning of this century travel became more comfortable, and from 1911 to 1958 could be from Malaga to mountain pass at Zafarraya travel by rail. The Bank of Belgium in Antwerp financed the construction of the "electric train" from Malaga to Velez. The distance measured 35.434 km; their construction was started on 29 November 1904 and inaugurated on June 26, 1906th On the route of the old mule tracks that farmers now brought their products to the port of Malaga. 1911 through the establishment of a railway association the route continued in the form of a cog railway up to the Ventas of Zafarraya.
The "Trenecillo" crossed the basin of the Rio Velez with its black poplars, willows and Rizinusbüschen. At the turn-off to the station Benamargosa Trapiche and its built with the money of American "returnees" new sugar factory was built. About bridges and through tunnels, past the Venta de Vinuela, the nub, thanks to the railways to a village at the Puente de Don Manuel ago we went to the station Periana, then much of the rail line increased to Cerro de Fuerte and ran into 900rn height to Ventas of Zafarraya contrary, the liegen.Der already in the province of Granada English writer Gerald Brenan, who lived in the Alpujarras many years, this ride pictured on his trip to Granada, where he the grave of the murdered in the civil war the great poet Federico Garcia Lorca wanted to look. "Behind Velez, the train began to climb toothed rails All afternoon he wriggled between red, earthy hills, which were covered with vines;. Then it went at breakneck speed down, then again
uphill to a pass. As we reached the top, who is also the terminus, it was quite dark, and we stuffed into a van that would take us 20 miles to Alhama. "
The coastal Kleinbahn was decommissioned in 1968, the route has at times brought the sea. The narrow-gauge railway could no longer meet the modern transport; a beach-road runs partly on the old railway embankment. The old railway stations serve other purposes, and in Torre del Mar the train station has been transformed to the bus station. In the Festschrift to Santiaga y Ana in 1995 in Torre del Mar Martin Galan Herrero mourned the loss of the web in a poem:
You were not a Talgo, modest little train, little old train of the better years. Centipede on the coast
with your graceful and downs, like a Zigeunel: Bähnchen, simple and pleasant,
along liefst by Vega and her green, the sea as a train of fishermen; or you climbing test of the mountains, mountain range.
There were few bathers on the coast and not yet Chalets apartments from Torre del Mar to Zqfarraya.
..Heute Go into the highways on the shores of the sea through the middle of my heart. I can still hear the child's whistle your boiler.
Now you can ride buses every half hour to Malaga. The villages are connected to the bus. The traffic is more dense. In 1997, the population of the Axarquia has reached 135,000; to come in the summer months, the multiples to tourists. Then, the main roads are no match for the traffic. In August, when close in France the factories and the Moroccan and Algerian workers strive for the crossing to AIgeciras arise endless accumulation sections. Fortunately, the motorway from Malaga will finally get built. Simultaneously, the road to Velez-Malaga motorway have been widened to four lanes. The timetables of buses are coordinated with the needs of the population, they leave in the morning down to the coast and in the afternoon back to the villages. For walkers without your own car, it is difficult to get into the open landscape in the morning. It is possible to rent a car, to order it even to the airport and there again abzustellen- upon departure Driving on the narrow winding roads requires a lot of experience and utmost attention.
"The landscape is captured with the feet, not with the car tires," says George Duhamel. We bring the love for the country and people with, want to see how you live elsewhere, want to observe nature and be easy go. Wildlife we have hardly seen in the Axarquia, just circling birds of prey in the mountains. But we found flowers that were unknown to us or that we know only as a cultivated, admired the flowers of the caper bush and tapped on the fruits of the squirting cucumber, with a jet of water spun their seeds themselves.
to wander on the beach, playing with the wave tongues to seek mussels to talk to fishermen or to play with the friendly dogs and cats, is also a nice experience, but it's exhausting to stomp in sand or exceed reefs that block the way. Antonio Machado says about walking: "There is no way The path is made by walking.." However: In Spain, the hiking is not popular, and out of Spanish literature we learn that that was traveling on foot walking despised. In "Don Quixote" Teresa Pans receives its Sancho with the words: "! Why, man, how you come therefore I believe you're going to walk like a dog" Spanish migrant people we are only in the nature reserve Sierra Cazorla, at Rio Borosa, encounters, which we considered remotely for German, because they wore knickerbockers and red-checked shirts. There were walkers from Madrid who told us that the migrant movement spreads in the large cities. They traveled "En cache de San Fernanda, un Ratita a pie y atra andanda", which literally means: "In the carriage of San Fernando, a while on foot then wandering". Saint Ferdinand had as an itinerant preacher nor a coach like our traveling journeymen had a horse when "on foot" traveled.
In the summer months our Wanderlust is attenuated. Then we enjoy the water, seek the shade and get an understanding of the Spanish siesta. In the evenings take as long walks by the sea, and the moon and the stars seem much closer and bigger in the clear air. Whether traveling time if bath time, -always it's nice here in the Axarquia! ,
Elisabeth Klehr from Postille